actually al, it was jolly. why shouldn't it be? we all dream about big waves right? might not be our stong suit, but it is what most surfers long for in the end. might not be for everybody's skill level but still makes for a great time in the water.

although it was still hair-raising, i admit. but you know? maybe it was that exactly which made the sessions better! we can't just keep surfing playful and crumbling waves at our favorite friendly beahcbreaks all the time. there are times when we have to push ourselves past our comfort bubble. it's big, too big perhaps, but that's what we were sent, so might as well surf it. paddle under a heaving lip even if common sense tells you to paddle out past the breakers, then takeoff late even if every cell in our body is screaming stop and bail, then pull in and hope for the best.. that's the only way we'll surf better. we all have to do it one day right? that's what i think. we can always manage to surf these heavy conditions without compromising personal safety if we all play it smart. there's no other way of playing it anyway.