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AuthorTopic: A surfer's government (4 posts)
knefut2003-2008
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Posts: 40
A surfer's government
« on: May 24th, 2003, 7:07pm »
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     Every break has its local crew.These are the surfers who surf at this particular break all the the time,know others in the crew,and have a degree of wave riding skill,although it isn't necessary that they have extraordinary prowess.
    The local crew has the home field advantage and the pick of the waves over the newcomer.In order to break into any spot the newcomer needs to show deference and goodwill towards the locals.The newcomer cannot be overly aggressive and demanding of waves.Such behavior will not be rewarded by the home town no matter what the new comer's level of skill is.No doubt the newcomer will find himself crowded and/or heckled out of position.
     Some spots have a more rigid pecking order than others and breaking in may take quite a bit of time and diplomacy.However it is my opinion that the individual newcomer can eventually break in anywhere if he tries hard enough and follows a few simple guidelines:
     Be courteous.Don't take offense.Work the point or the best area for the waves from the outside in.Don't paddle into the middle of the pack.Don't snake anybody,of course,and simply try to make friends.Over the course of time this will work.The biggest blunder of all is showing up with a carload of pals.Always work into a spot as an individual.
     At first glance this ritual may seem somewhat trite and primitive,but keep in mind that the lineup has no police and that things really are different out there.Just because waves are free and legally belong to us all doesn't mean squat.Its the way things are until they start patrolling the surf with jet ski's.And who,outside of the legal profession,wants that.
     And also understand that the heart of localism is not petty meanness,but respect.For the surfers who came before and the sanctity of the spot itself.
      "THE SURFER WHO CATCHES THE WAVE CLOSEST TO THE BREAKING PART OF THE WAVE HAS RIGHT OF WAVE." grin
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sponjah2002-2004
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Posts: 77
Re: A surfer's government
« on: May 24th, 2003, 7:31pm »
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nicely stated! wink cool
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hydrophobia2003
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Posts: 67
Re: A surfer's government
« on: May 25th, 2003, 3:11am »
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yeah... i agree.

cheers evryone. cheesy
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Jerry2002-2008
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Posts: 42
Re: A surfer's government
« on: May 25th, 2003, 3:54am »
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Having been a local at one of the most "localized" point breaks on the planet these past 25 years, I agree wholeheartedly with Knefuts observations and opinions.
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